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A Field Guide to Southwest Jewelry · by Mateo James

Die-Making and Stamps: The Tools of Navajo Silversmithing Decoration

Die-making is the craft of cutting decorative patterns into hardened steel so the die can be pressed into sheet silver to transfer its design as a stamped impression. Stamps — the finished dies — are the tools that produce stampwork, the most widely practiced surface decoration in Navajo silversmithing. The earliest Navajo smiths made their own dies from scrap iron; by the late nineteenth century, traders supplied commercially made stamps, and by the Guild era of the 1930s and 1940s, the Indian Arts and Crafts Board was standardizing die forms for the hallmark program.

1883 engraving of a Navajo silversmith's workshop: forge, bellows, anvil and hand tools, with a horseshoe doming die
Workshop of a Navajo silversmith, as engraved for Matthews in 1883: forge, bellows and hand tools. By Matthews’ own key, the piece of old horseshoe at lower right holds the matrices for doming beads and buttons. Washington Matthews, “Navajo Silversmiths,” Second Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology (1883), Pl. XVII, public domain.

Mateo's Field Notes

Washington Matthews documented the earliest die-making at Fort Wingate in 1880–81, describing the tools of the day: "homemade cold chisels, awls, dies, and matrices made out of scrap iron." (Adair 1944, ~p. 16, via Matthews) The smith made what he could not buy. Matthews also noted how files were repurposed: "the shanks serve as punches and the points as gravers, with which figures are engraved on the silver." A file handle end pressed into a silver surface leaves an impression; the same logic produces a stamp. The transition from improvised punches to purpose-cut dies is one of technical refinement, not conceptual change.

1912 drawing of an engraved iron die with a leaf scroll, from an English silversmithing manual
For comparison, an English workshop, 1912: an engraved iron die for stamping a repeat pattern into silver. Fig. 163, H. Wilson, Silverwork and Jewelry (1912), p. 268, public domain.

Adair's appendix Table V, titled "Basic Die Forms," documents the range of stamp designs in use during his 1940s fieldwork — the first systematic catalog of the die vocabulary Navajo smiths had accumulated. The table is a snapshot of a tradition that had been developing since the 1870s, when Navajo smiths first obtained steel dies from Mexican craftsmen and adapted leather-working tools for use on silver. (Adair 1944, Appendix Table V)

Ambrose Roanhorse is documented in our reference books as a key figure in the IACB era. Hougart's records place Roanhorse at the center of the Navajo Arts and Crafts Guild program that emerged from the Indian Arts and Crafts Board's 1930s–1940s efforts — a program that included the development of standardized prototype dies and hallmark stamps as part of quality control and authentication. (Hougart, Bille. Native American and Southwestern Silver Hallmarks, 5th ed. (2022), Ambrose Roanhorse entry) The relationship between official die programs and individual smith practice is documented through the hallmark record: early IACB stamps — "US NAVAJO" and related marks — are themselves die-struck impressions, products of the same technology adapted to authentication rather than decoration.

The die vocabulary in Navajo stampwork is extensive: crescents, rainbirds (also called thunderbirds in the trade, though our reference library uses both terms with different precision), whirling log variants, arrowheads, wave and zigzag borders, fluted edges, and geometric fills. Our reference library does not document a single inventor for most of these individual die forms; they appear in the record as part of the common vocabulary smiths shared, traded, and copied from each other.

Collector's Handbook

  • Stamps vs. dies. "Stamp" and "die" are used interchangeably in the collector literature. Technically the die is the tool and the stamp is the impression it makes; in practice, both words refer to the hardened steel implement pressed into silver.
  • Hand-stamped vs. machine-pressed. Hand-stamped silver shows slight irregularity in depth and alignment across a repeated pattern — no two impressions land identically. Machine-pressed production work has perfectly uniform, mechanically centered impressions. The irregularity of hand-stamping is not a flaw; it is evidence of the smith's hand.
  • Reading the IACB die record. The "US NAVAJO" and related Guild-era stamps documented in Hougart are themselves products of the IACB die program — standardized hallmark tools distributed to certified smiths. A piece bearing one of these marks was made or certified within that program's parameters. See the Hallmark Story for the full IACB context.
  • Die provenance. Antique sets of Navajo silversmithing stamps appear occasionally in estate sales. Their value as tools is distinct from their value as artifacts. Matching a recovered set of dies to documented work by a specific smith is possible in principle but requires physical comparison against known pieces with documented provenance.

In the Directory

Ambrose Roanhorse (Navajo) · Grey Moustache (Diné — eyewitness to the pre-stamp era) · Atsidi Sani (Diné — founding era)

Primary Sources

  • Adair, John. The Navajo and Pueblo Silversmiths. University of Oklahoma Press, 1944. ~p. 16 (Matthews 1880–81 account); Appendix Table V (Basic Die Forms).
  • Hougart, Bille. Native American and Southwestern Silver Hallmarks, 5th ed. (2022). Ambrose Roanhorse entry; IACB hallmark program documentation.

Related Entries

Stampwork · The Hallmark Story · File and Chisel Work · Hand-Wrought Ingot Work