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A Field Guide to Southwest Jewelry · by Mateo James

Bell Trading Post — Marks & History

Bell Trading Post — Marks & History

Bell Trading Post: Field Guide to Albuquerque's Large-Scale Jewelry Manufacturer

Bell Trading Post was an Albuquerque, New Mexico operation founded in 1932 and active through at least 1969, when it merged with Sunbell. Under owner Jack Michaelson, it produced handmade jewelry in its early years, then pivoted to high-volume tourist-market silver, nickel silver, and copper pieces presented as southwestern in character. Its marks are among the most frequently encountered on mid-century jewelry sold at trading posts and souvenir outlets across the Southwest.

Field Notes by Mateo James

Hougart's account is direct: "Bell Trading Post began operations in 1932. The company was owned and operated by Jack Michaelson (d.1977) of Albuquerque. Early production focused on handmade jewelry, but post-WWII production shifted to quality tourist items presented as southwestern in their advertisements." The wartime pivot included WW II lapel pins and paratrooper pins. The company merged with Sunbell in 1969.

The timeline entry in Hougart's historical index notes "1935 The Bell Trading Post opens" — this may reflect when Bell became prominent in the wholesale jewelry trade, rather than its founding year of 1932. Both dates appear in the primary source; the discrepancy is documented here honestly.

Bell's scale is captured by Bedinger's observation: "Bell Trading Co. in Albuquerque turns out tons of manufactured copper and smiths just don't try to compete." That phrase — "turns out tons" — is Bedinger's shorthand for the difference between artisan-scale production and the Bell model. Chester Yellowhair and Sam Roanhorse both have documented connections to Bell, which employed silversmiths alongside its manufacturing operations. The Southwestern Arts and Crafts (SWAC) program also purchased jewelry from Bell, per Hougart.

The Marks

Bell used multiple marks across different metals and different eras. The following are documented by Hougart (~lines 31051–31085):

  • BELL STERLING (with the word Sterling enclosing a bell image)
  • BELL (with hatch marks around the bell)
  • STERLING BY BELL (surrounding a bell)
  • STERLING (under a signpost with a bell)
  • BELL STERLING (draped over a bell)
  • STERLING BY BELL (signpost with a bell, another variant)
  • NICKEL SILVER BELL (surrounding a bell) — no silver content
  • STERLING NICKEL SILVER (and a signpost)
  • SOLID COPPER (and a signpost)
  • Bracelet tags: NICKEL SILVER BELL
  • Post-1969 (after Sunbell merger): STERLING BY BELL SUNBELL

Collector's Handbook — Authentication Priority

Critical distinction: BELL STERLING marks indicate silver content. NICKEL SILVER BELL marks indicate nickel silver — which contains NO silver. This is the primary authentication issue with Bell pieces. A piece marked "Nickel Silver Bell" is base metal, regardless of its southwestern appearance or style.

Era tells: Pre-1969 pieces carry marks without "SUNBELL." Post-merger pieces may carry the combined STERLING BY BELL SUNBELL designation. Early handmade pieces (pre-WWII) are distinguishable from the later high-volume production by workmanship and construction details rather than marks alone.

Native American Indian Arts and Crafts Act note: Bell Trading Post was a non-Native manufacturer. Pieces should not be represented as Native-made. Their southwestern style was commercial, not craft-tradition.

References

  • Hougart, Bille. Native American and Southwestern Silver Hallmarks, 5th ed. (2022), ~lines 31051–31085. [Primary source — full mark documentation and company history.]
  • Bedinger, Margery. Indian Silver: Navajo and Pueblo Jewelers (1973), ~line 9251. [Manufacturing scale context.]
  • Lowry, Joe Dan. Turquoise: The World Story of a Fascinating Gemstone (2010), ~line 4687. [General context on Bell's role in the tourist trade.]